All Articles
Every article about Sicily published so far, newest first.
π‘ Practical TipsMarzamemi: Fifty Fishermen's Houses Around One Square
A tuna village on Sicily's south-eastern tip, founded by the Arabs around the year 1000 and barely changed since the 1700s. What to see, when to go, and why late September is the right time.
π‘ Practical TipsPiano Battaglia: Sicily Has a Ski Resort, and It Is Not on Etna
At 1,572m in the Madonie, between the second-highest mountain in Sicily and a forest holding one of the rarest trees on earth. Three lifts in winter, the best hiking on the island the rest of the year.
π‘ Practical TipsSolunto: the Greek-Roman Town Above Palermo That Almost Nobody Visits
A whole Hellenistic city on a mountain 20 minutes from Palermo, with paved streets, houses you can walk into and a view over Capo Zafferano. β¬5, reachable by train, and usually close to empty.
π‘ Practical TipsSperlinga: the Sicilian Village That Said No, Carved Into a Single Rock
A castle cut out of a sandstone outcrop, fifty cave houses lived in until 1960, and an inscription boasting that this one town refused to join the Sicilian Vespers. What to see at Sperlinga, what it costs, and why the village speaks a northern Italian dialect.
Tindari: A Black Madonna, a Greek Theatre and the Lagoons That Shouldn't Be There
A sanctuary on a cliff above the Tyrrhenian, a Greek theatre facing the sea, and the sand lagoons below that a legend says appeared to catch a falling child. What to see at Tindari, and what it costs.
Piazza Armerina: The Town Everyone Drives Through to Reach the Mosaics
A million people a year pass Piazza Armerina on the way to the Villa Romana del Casale and almost none stop. The town above the villa has four medieval quarters that still fight each other on horseback every August.
What to Eat in Sicily: The Dishes That Matter, and When to Order Them
Sicilian food is regional and seasonal in ways menus never explain. Which dish belongs to which city, what counts as breakfast, and the things you can only get in the right month.
Enna: The Highest Provincial Capital in Italy, and Where the Seasons Were Invented
At 970m Enna looks down on most of Sicily from a ridge nobody could ever take. It holds one of Italy's largest medieval castles, the site of the first Sicilian parliament, and the lake where Persephone was carried off.
Sciacca: The Spa Town Where You Cannot Take the Waters
Sicily's most famous thermal town has had its baths shut since 2015, and almost every guide still sells them. Here is what is actually open β including an olive grove filled with a thousand carved stone heads.
Scala dei Turchi in 2026: The Rules Changed Again, and Most Guides Are Wrong
Sicily's white cliff now runs on a β¬6 ticket, a hard cap of 1,800 visitors a day and groups of 50 every twenty minutes β and the online booking system everyone tells you to use was scrapped.
Mazara del Vallo: Sicily's Most Arab Town, and the Bronze a Trawler Pulled Up
The Arab conquest of Sicily landed here in 827, and Mazara never stopped being North African. The same fishing fleet that keeps it that way also hauled a 2,400-year-old Greek bronze off the seabed.
Mozia: The Phoenician City on an Island Almost Nobody Visits
A ten-minute boat ride from Marsala sits an entire Phoenician city, razed in 397 BC and never built over. The road to it is still there, a metre under the lagoon.